Days and days of fog. We riders in the Central Valley certainly have had an excellent crop of it to deal with this year through periods of seemingly endless duration. Along with the obvious and immediate safety hazards these conditions present, there is no getting around the fact that our famous Tule fog is no fun to ride in…unless we are riding out of it in search of sunny skies. Thousands of bikers sit in front of the computer screen checking the weather in search of blue skies, and very often the sun’s rays are breaking through to the west. The Sierra high-country twisties may be covered in snow and ice right now, however we won’t let that stop us from dancing in the curves.
On today’s ride, we are going to quench our desire for some back road adventure scratching and throw in an ultra relaxing soak in a toasty mineral bath. The ride North on the mighty 99 is cloaked in the soupy stuff, so allow some extra stopping room and time to turn west on Hwy 152 towards Los Banos. On this particular day visibility was down to about 300 feet. It’s an eerie, silent world out on these flatlands as cows and cars creep up in your visor, so it’s best to be alert on this drone. The feeling of joy when emerging from the gloom lifts our spirits and after a quick coffee stop the going is clear and sunny.
For you Central Valley bikers yearning to make the getaway from Visalia and points south, a slog out Highway 198 to Coalinga will reward you with one of the finest rides in the region. After a stop for fuel and snacks in Coalinga (highly recommended, as our planned route is short on services), continue west on the 198. You will be treated to a set of left-right flick-flacks, culminating into a set of fast sweepers leading you into Priest Valley. The woodland on each side of the tarmac tumbles in, and after the peaceful setting of this lush valley, you’ll find yourself ascending a series of sweet switchbacks, cresting to a downhill run to the junction of Highway 25, the Airline Highway, which pretty much runs the course of the San Andreas fault line. Take the right turn north towards Hollister, and be prepared for mile after mile of heavenly road. To borrow a phrase from another state, this is Big Sky country with wide open vistas of lush green (at least this time of year) ranchland. You may not see another vehicle for miles as you swoop along the pavement. It’s an epic run to the crossroads at Paicines, where you will turn east on the J1 (Panoche Road).
Today, however, we are heading west towards Hollister on the 152. We are greeted with a stellar set of fast sweepers on excellent pavement, a ribbon of near perfect tarmac. Add in the serene views of the San Luis Reservoir with the surrounding emerald green hills, and the pea soup is long forgotten. This section of the 152, also known as Pacheco Pass Highway, spills out into the lush southern Santa Clara Valley swimming in green. We take the left onto 156 towards Hollister. If you’re not in the mood to visit California’s own motorcycle mecca, a great bypass is to take a left on Fairview Rd towards Highway 25. Another left and we are heading South on 25, the Airline Highway. Keep an eye on your fuel gauge though; after leaving the Hollister area fuel can be scarce. There is fuel and excellent pancakes a few miles south in Tres Pinos.
A short distance down the 25 through the rolling hills brings us to one of the primary reasons for the journey: the delicious J1, also known as Panoche Rd. As we make a left heading east, the vineyards are spilling out on the velvety green hills. This is a classic California back road, where you may see only one or two other vehicles. Keep in mind you may encounter a cow or other wildlife roaming the J1. Being a lightly traveled path also means it’s low on the county’s maintenance schedule, so the trade off is less than silky asphalt and areas of washed out pavement. While I have ridden this slice at a blistering pace on several occasions, today an easy cruise is the perfect choice.
Easing into a broad valley that reminds us of Montana’s Big Sky country, complete with cattle ranches and ranch hands, you will see the welcome sight of the Panoche Inn on the right. This friendly spot has tasty sandwiches, cold beverages and a ceiling plastered with signed dollar bills. Pleasant weather weekends will find several bikes of all styles and their riders basking in the sun on the outdoor tables.
We continue down the road after the Panoche Inn and, staying on J1, take the left turn and head north towards Mercy Hot Springs. Now you will be faced with miles of straight road ending in a series of tight switchbacks though the low hills looking for the entire world like parts of Nevada that I have trekked through. After some bumpy pavement you’ll be back in Fresno County and see the turn off to a gravel path leading to the oasis that is Mercey Hot Springs.
First discovered in the mid 1800’s Mercey Hot Springs became a resort about 110 years ago. Current owners have done a fabulous job of restoring this out of the way retreat while staying in harmony with the environment. Many options are available for your relaxing stay including cabins, camping, outdoor pools and sauna. We opt for our favorite indoor tub and rest our bones in the soothing waters. Afterwards, we are recharged and ready for the slog back to the soggy Central Valley, returning to home base via Mendota and Kerman.
The moral of this story would be: A winter’s day can be a delight if you gear up and ride to the hidden, but abundant, gems around us.
